Fire Giant Vesuv and a Visit at the Archeological City of Herculaneum

If you ever stay at the westcoast of Italy, near Naples, you have to take the opportunity to visit the mighty Vesuv as well as the archeological sites of Herculaneum and Pompei. Most people know the story of the big eruption in 79 AD but actually seeing it and climbing the volcano is a great and awestruck experience.

Mount Vesuvius

Mount Vesuv, Vesuvius or Italian Vesuvio, is still one of the most dangerous volcanos worldwide. It is known as the "sleeping giant" because it is still an active volcano and thus a great risk for millions of people living around it in Naples. The eruption in 79 AD was one of the most formidable and first documented volcano eruptions and many lives were lost.

For the people of the Middle Ages, the entire region around the volcano was called the gateway to hell or the abode of the fire giant Vulcanus. An eruption of Vesuvius in modern times would, even with the scientific all-round measurements (Thank you, Science!) and the early warning system, cause great damage and probably not reach all people.

I have to say I had great respect and was even a little scared to climb that mountain.

By the way, what is still visible of the volcano is not even the "whole" volcano, but only the remnant of the mountain volcano Somma. The top was blown apart during the many eruptions and in the remaining cauldron (caldera) lies the smaller crater, which today is called Vesuvius.

If you look at that mountain from Naples you will ask yourself "This thing was actually an even bigger volcano?", because Vesuvius does not look small now. It is about 1281m high and rises very conspicuously in the landscape.

Ascent to Vesuvius

Theoretically, Vesuvius can be climbed from the very bottom of the suburbs in Naples. A long meandering road leads up to the top of the volcano. You can drive yourself up to about 800 meters in altitude and reserve a parking space there (best online). From here you already have a beautiful view on the city and the shore.

From the parking lot of Vesuvius you can now either walk or continue with a shuttle bus. The bus goes back and forth between the parking lot and the higher level about every 10 to 15 min. The last one returns at about 6pm. It costs approx. 6€ per person and per drive.

Those who go up by bus, however, have not quite made it. The rest of the volcano must be climbed on foot. For this, a ticket is needed that you buy best online in advance (10€ p. P. As of 2023). The entrance is limited!

The ticket is only valid for the selected day and time and should best be booked 1 - 2 months in advance, because especially in summer the tickets can be booked up early. We could actually find in the 2 week period only one day on which we could buy a suitable ticket. Fortunately, the weather played along...

Once you passed the ticket gate, you'll come to the rest of the snaking path. The path up is a mixture of volcanic ash, dark sand, gravel, and rocks, so it's not for unfit people, wheelchairs, or strollers.

The path is wide, but you should be surefooted. To the left and right of the paths you will find small bushes and a little grass, which becomes more and more sparse towards the top. If you look around, you will see on a surrounding ridge, the remains of the original mountain Somma (Monte Somma). On the way you will find several small souvenir stores and snack stores with cool volcano souvenirs, postcards and "Vesuvius brandy".

At the top of Vesuvius

After the gravel path stage is over, you find yourself at the edge of the crater. Here the path becomes narrower and goes in places over stones and stairs. At first you walk along the crater wall and don't see much yet. But a few meters further come many good vantage points for the crater.

In some places it actually smokes from time to time and whoever looks into this gigantic hole will be overwhelmed by the sheer size of the crater. Here and there you can see seismic measuring systems, which look inconspicuous, but can be the only bit of security for millions of people. It is hard to comprehend how much force lies behind an eruption, that a mountain is blown up and the eruption column is several kilometers high. The masses of volcanic ash and lava that can come out. Take a moment up there to grasp that.

Currently, you can't walk completely around the crater for safety reasons, and at a kiosk at the end of the trail, about a third of the way around the crater, the accessible section ends. If you can take your eyes off the crater, however, you will find an equally breathtaking view on the other side: The coast of Naples and the cities beyond.

You can also see the headland near Sorrento in the light misty blue of the sky.

We were lucky enough that the weather was cloudy, but reasonably stable and so had a beautiful view down to the coast. Also the ridge of Vesuvius was very nicely lit by the sun.

Herculaneum

Pompeii is actually the better known archaeological museum, but we deliberately chose Herculaneum because it is smaller and probably better preserved. In addition, it is a little closer to the volcano. However, the entrance to the Pompeii Museum is free on the first Sunday of every month!

There are also several villas and other facilities in Pompeii that you can enter at an additional cost. Herculaneum is also called Ercolano in Italian, so look for signs with the Italian name.

Herculaneum/Ercolano is cheaper than Pompeii and with one ticket everything is included. The entire excavation can be visited in about 2 hours at your leisure, if you take some time here and there. In addition to the open area, there is also a museum with finds that are exhibited behind glass panes.

Here you can find a lot of information about the families who lived there, social structures and jewelry and workpieces. Did you know that in the past the baths and latrines were used for socializing? Bets were also made and business relationships were strengthened. Today somehow hardly imaginable 😀

Some of the buildings in Herculaneum are so well preserved that wall colors and mosaics are very recognizable. Floor coverings, columns and even some wooden slats are still intact. Much has been subsequently improved for stability, but you can clearly see where new meets original.

If you want, you can borrow an audio guide or book a tour. There are many tour guides on the road with groups and you may pick up some interesting information here and there. In the entrance area there is of course also a small museum store with souvenirs and many books.

On the one hand, I found it very impressive what kind of buildings people were already able to build almost 2000 years ago and what works of art were embedded in walls and floors. Some of the houses were already two-story high at that time, the furniture made of heavy real wood and ornately decorated.

On the other hand, it is frightening to imagine how quickly these people lost their homes and also their lives back then. On one side of the village there was a prison where inmates were simply left inside when the inhabitants escaped. The human remains, whole skeletons, are still clearly visible and lying around there. I personally found it pretty creepy and kind of horrible and was glad that we discovered the skeletons only when we were already back at the top of the viewing platform and we could see them only from afar.

Conclusion

Vesuvius is an example of how nature is so unpredictable, so powerful, and how we are actually completely inferior to it. The fact that people still dare to get so close and even build a city of millions right next to the still active (!) volcano shows either daring, ignorance or disrespect. Perhaps it also shows courage.

Standing on top of the crater, you can see what would be at stake if it erupted. And a visit to Herculaneum or Pompeii proves the power of the mountain, the helplessness of the people and how quickly the natural disaster can take place.

It is worth taking the experience with you and becoming aware of it. I am grateful to be able to live where I live.

Stay safe and healthy,

Bavai